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7 Miles North of San Miguel on the road to Delores Hidalgo
31 Miles North of San Miguel Via Route 51

45 Minute drive Northeast of San Miguel. Road marked Dr. Mora
1 Hour drive from San Miguel
125 Miles Southwest of San Miguel

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La
Parroquia - the emblem of San Miguel, is also the central
apex of the city. All other activities branch out from here. It is an
object of great pride for the citizenry and a source of discomfort for
architectural purists. It was fascinatingly designed in the late 19th
century in a colonial style by the self-trained unfettered mason
Ceferino Gutiérrez who sketched his designs in the sand with
a stick. This towering Gothic Revival parish church is made of local
cantera sandstone. It is said that Gutiérrez was inspired by
postcards of European Gothic cathedrals and, since the postcards gave
no hint of what the back of those cathedrals looked like, the posterior
of La Parroquia was done in a Mexican style. It owes more to the
builders imagination than to European churches. The original
bell cast in 1732 still calls parishioners to mass and can be heard
several times daily throughout the town. South side of El Jardin 8:00
AM-2:00 PM and 5:00PM -9:00 PM. Free admission.
Oratorio de San Felipe Neri
Calles Insurgents and Loreto (El Centro) was built by local Indians in
1712. The original chapel can still be glimpsed at the eastern
façade. It is made of pink stone and adorned with the figure
of Our Lady of Solitude. The newer Southern Front was built in an
ornate Baroque style. The wealthy Count of Canal financed the addition
to the Oratorio in 1734. Just behind the Oratorio is the Templo de
Santa Casa de Loreto with heavily gilded altars and effigies of the
count and his wife and their tombs.
Casa de Ignacio Allende, now a
museum (Cuna de Allende 1)
El Centro 415-152-2499 Tues-Sun 10:00 AM - 4:00 PM $3.00
This was the birth place of Ignacio Allende, one of Mexico's great
independence heroes. He was a Creole aristocrat who, together with
Father Miguel Hidalgo, plotted in the early 1800's to overthrow the
Spanish regime. Spanish Royalists learned of their plot and began
arresting the conspirators. In turn, Allende and Hidalgo at dawn on
September 16, 1810 rang out the cry of Independence and the fighting
began. Allende was captured and executed by Royalists the following
year. As a tribute to his brave efforts, San Miguel el Grande was
renamed San Miguel Allende in the 20th century. Today it is one of the
"museos regionales" whose objective is to present a view of the local
area and to explain the roles the region played in the context of
national development. It depicts the way of life in the
region from pre-hispanic times to the late colonial era. The artifacts
are pre-hispanic pottery, colonial furnishings and articles of daily
life. All are fascinating. The beauty of the house is also a
treat!

Iglesia de la ConcepcÃon
Located just behind the Belle Artes-Calle Canal between Hernãndez Macias and Zacateros. It has one of the largest domes in Mexico. The 2 story dome (completed in 1891) and the detailed Corinthian columns and pillers are said to have been inspired by Paris's dome of the Hotel des Invalides
Iglesia de San Francisco
Noted for one of the finest Baroque facades and detailed surface decoration in the style of the Spanish architect José Churriquera. (late 18th century) The church was financed by donations from wealthy patrons and with bull fighting revenues. On top of the elaborate exterior is the image of Saint Francis of Assisi.

Excursions outside San Miguel
The Sanctuary of Atotonilco (Indian word for a place of hot waters)
This fascinating sanctuary is a very important religious and historical
shrine in Mexico. When you stand on the front steps of this church with
the rustic small road in front and the frequent windy days, it is easy
to imagine going back in time. The church was built in the mid 18th
century by Father Alfaro and was dedicated to Jesus. Small stalls in
the front sell whips and crowns of thorns. To this day, pilgrims find
their way carrying mattresses and blankets and wearing the crowns of
thorns in order to spend a few days in meditation and prayer. Inside
the sanctuary one will see the ceilings of the shrine and chapels.
In 1810 Father Hidalgo stopped in Atotonilco during his march against
the Spaniards to pick up the standard of the Virgin of Guadalupe before
arriving in San Miguel. It was also the church where Ignacio Allende
was married. Today, it is listed as a World Heritage site by the United
Nations. The countryside in all directions is fascinating. There are
many small chapels and alters in the open fields that served old
Mexican homes and haciendas.
Dolores Hidalgo
This was the town where Father Hidalgo launched Mexico's fight for
Independence on Sept. 16, 1810 with the "grito," "death to bad
government." Every September 15th at 1:00 PM, politicians signal the
start of Independence Day festivities with "Viva Mexico!" On September
16th, and only on this day, the bell in Hidalgo's Parish church is
rung. Once father Hidalgo's home, Casa Hidalgo is now a museum. It
contains copies of important letters and other independence memorabilia.
Calle Morelos 1-418-1820171 $3.00 Tues-Sat. 1):00-5:45, Sun 10:00-4:45
Today, Dolores Hidalgo is a mecca of hand glazed talavera style
(ceramic primarily) at reasonable prices. The car ride to Dolores is
fun and interesting. There are an array of Mexican antique stores. These are dotted
along both sides of the road as one approaches the city. Many of
these have their wares scattered over the fields or under open roofs. Prices
are great and can provide for great finds!
After shopping, have lunch
at El Carruaje Plaza Principal 8 and cross over the plaza for the most
exotic ice creams: mole, avocado, beer and corn.

Pozos
Pozos is a captivating high desert town that was a silver mining center
in the late 19th century. Today it is almost a ghost town with abandoned
buildings and an echoing chapel. The Casa Montana Hotel is the hub of
information and activity in Pozos. A tour of the old mines can be
arranged by the owner. The hotel itself has a colonial atmosphere with
bougainvillea terraces and guest rooms filled with local artwork,
fireplaces and deep tubs.

Guanajuato
Guanajuato is a beautiful Colonial town with streets that never seem to
end; where you would expect, all are crisscrossed with alleys.
There is a fascinating jumble of buildings and little plazas that have
much the feel of European capitals. The central square is tree-lined
and there are musical performances 3 times a week in the plaza's band
gazebo. At other times, groups of musicians break into impromptu song
along the shaded tile walkways. Guanajuato was once a prominent silver mining
city and its cobblestone streets still wind up the mountainside. They are all
dotted with colorful local houses. Another fascinating feature, is a vast
subterranean roadway, now used for parking. A rushing river once ran
through the city and floods finally caused the habitants to move the
entire metropolis to higher ground.
It was originally settled by wealthy land and mine owners producing 1/3
of all the silver in the world. For this reason many of it's colonial buildings date
back to the 18th century (It's no wonder that it was named a World
Heritage site in 1988). The home of Diego Rivera, one of Mexico's
foremost muralists and husband of Frida Kalo, is an interesting site
to see. Guanajuato was Rivera's birthplace and the house contains his
family portraits, furniture, and some works of Rivera himself. Among
Rivera's studies is the controversial mural commissioned for New York's
Rockefeller Center. The mural had an overall communist direction with a
portrait of Lenin. It was therefore destroyed immediately after it was
displayed. Guanajuato's famous university was founded in 1732. It was
formerly a Jesuit seminary and even then it was designed to blend in
with the towns local architecture. The internal bulletin board lists
the towns cultural events. Each fall there is the international
Cervantes Festival held here.
International Cervantes Festival
Plaza de San Francisquito 1 El Centro 473-731-1150
For 3 weeks in October, world renowned actors, musicians, and dance
troops perform nightly in the Teatro Juarez and other local venues.
There are a variety of museums, gardens, churches, and fortresses to
visit. For an interesting dinner stop, try Casa del Conde de la
Valenciana. It is the refurbished 18th century home of the former count of La
Valenciana. Patio dining is always fun as are the dining rooms.
The menu is traditional Mexican with an international flare and some
original recipes.
Caretera Guanajuato (Dolores 5 KM)
Opposite La Valenciana Church
Tel: 473-732-2550
After dark, one can catch worthwhile theater in Plazuela de San Roque. Also at 8:00 AM on Sunday when the university is in session, students
perform short theatrical pieces in period costumes that look
appropriate in the square. They rely more on action than dialogue. It
is not necessary to understand Spanish to enjoy it.
Morelia Michoácan
This is a delightful weekend get away! It is an absolutely charming
Mexican city with an aristocratic flare. Long, wide boulevards invite
you to stroll through, while outdoor cafes entice you to sit down and colonial mansions in earth tones are a delight to see. These are offices,
museums, shops, restaurants and hotels. The magnificent 17th century
aqueduct with 253 arches still carries water to the city and is right
on the central boulevard. No wonder Morelia earned the status as a Unesco
World Heritage site.
Several annual festivals indulge Morelianos in their love of music.
Each May the International Organ Festival is celebrated in the
cathedral with the outstanding 4,600 pipe organ. It features Baroque
and Chamber music with orchestras from throughout Mexico. The festival
Internacional de Musica is also held the last 2 weeks in July. The Tram (Tranvia Kuanari) is a great way to see Morelia lit up at
night. (The Tranvia de la Calle Real departs from Plaza Valladolid
Wed-Sun). It also includes a visit to Museo del Dulce and a demonstration on how the city's delicious
confections are made.
Sights include, among other things, Parque Zoológico Benito
Juárez (the largest zoo in Mexico), many varied museums,
the cathedral, the former seminary and Plaza de Armes. The
Casa de las Artesanias del Estado de Michoácan is the artisan center
dating form the 16th century, where the bishop of Michoácan helped the
Indians develop artistic specialties so they could be self supporting.
There are some spectacular restaurants in Morelia with lots of historic
charm. Many serve some of Michoácan's tastiest dishes that include: tomato based sopa and corn
products such as "huche pos," sweet tamales and corundos (savory
triangular tamales and great game such as rabbit or quail).
La Casa del Portal (Guillermo Prieto 30) 443-3134899 or 443-3174217
This
is a lovely stone mansion facing
Plaza de Armas. Most of the wonderful Colonial antique furniture is for
sale and quite lovely. The menu includes regional standards such
as enchiladas del Portal. Leon Guzmán 47-443-312-6113.
Fonda Los Mercedes,
(Leon Guzmán 47) 443-3126113 No dinner Sundays. This restored mansion has a dramatic narrow entrance topped with
round rocks collected from the countryside. This leads to the plant-filled stone patio. There is an eclectic menu offering lots of soups
and 6 kinds of crepes. |